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Can You Improve Upon Ranch?

Ranch dressing with black truffles, an exercise in low-to-high, is a new product to ponder. It’s made by a company that imports black truffles from France and sells them to restaurants. The creamy ivory dressing is dotted with bits of the truffles and nicely delivers their haunting aroma and flavor. You could use it on a salad, but I preferred it spooned on Dover sole, a baked potato or a steak.

Black Truffle Ranch by Trufflin, $20 for 6.8 ounces,

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Florence Fabricant is a food and wine writer. She writes the weekly Front Burner and Off the Menu columns, as well as the Pairings column, which appears alongside the monthly wine reviews. She has also written 12 cookbooks.

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